Bareshaft Tuning 

Instead of going to the field for a session, I went instead to a friend’s garden to shoot.

Ostensibly, we were going to do bareshaft tuning with the twelve cedar shafts I’d bought. I got them from a guy at the club who told me they we 40/41 spines, which should mean they’re more consistent with each other than the 40/45 bundling offered by most local archery shops.

Now, obviously my shooting isn’t consistent enough to really make true bareshaft tuning work properly, but what we did do was shoot a couple of bareshafts and prove they were weak and see how they went. Couple of mishaps: lost a point that wasn’t screwed on tight enough in the boss and snapped a weak bareshaft.

We trimmed back the bareshaft, shooting it multiple times, until it was angled just slightly with the nock to the left of the point, meaning just a tad weak. Once this was happening consistently, we cut down three arrows to this length and seeing they were flying consistently well and only slightly weak, we fletched two. 

We shot the fletched couple alongside a bareshaft and the fetched ones flew totally straight, having the slight weakness righted by the feathers.

So, not exactly arrow-by-arrow bareshaft tuning, but the result is my now having arrows that are well-suited to me and my bow, and shot repeatedly enough to know that when I shoot them well, they’re spot on, they’re straight. Which is a huge step up from shop bought ones.

Unfortunately, some of the points I was given were a tiny bit slimmer than the others, so it’ll be a few days before I have the full compliment of arrows, but meanwhile should soon have 7 to work with, which is better than the mixed bag of 2 remaining greens and 3 remaining yellows which is just the disastrous end of the shop-bought ones.

(As for the twelve arrows that I’d bought for the countywide tournament recently, which I sent back to the shop for flying 20 yards off to the left every time – I did eventually get my money back on those, although not the postage, but you can’t have everything.)

I leant more about making arrows tonight too. 

Step 1 – use a taper tool (glorified pencil sharpener) to make an end for the nock

Step 2 – identify the grain pattern (rift) on the shaft to determine the rotation of the nock, the rift should be on top and pointing to what will be the pointy end. 

Step 3 – add cement to tapered shaft, insert and orient the nock (outside edge of nock in line with the grain pattern) 

Step 4 – next, sharpen/taper the point’s end

Step 5 – screw on point with pliers, later to be superglued on. 

I also got to watch the fletching being done on a £30 Bearpaw jig. 

Steps: insert arrow in jig, clamp feather, superglue length of feather, put clamp in jig, lower clamp so feather attaches to shaft, spray with activator. When all 3 done, put a bit of superglue on end of each fletching and smooth to help prevent feather coming off in grass.

We decided there was no point me worrying about using Danish oil on the shafts because I’ll probably have smashed them all before I know it. 

He explained that he uses wraps to crest his own carbon arrows because if the fletching gets damaged you can remove a wrap from a carbon arrow and then re-crest and re-fletch. This wouldn’t work with a wooden arrow.

So, I ended up with a few good arrows. I’d bought bright orange nocks and bright orange fletching. I figure I’ll spend less time hunting in the grass this way. All 3 feathers are orange. I’d thought of buying a different colour for the index vane / cockfeather but he pointed out there’s no need. I hadn’t thought about it before, but there’s only two ways a nock will clip on to the string and only one way that looks remotely right, so the index feather is of limited help really. And actually, if everyone else uses one, not having one just makes it all the easier to identify your arrows.

I’d known to buy parabolic, left wing, 3″ goose feathers from Merlin. This is what his jig was set for, so made things quick and simple. Not sure what’s involved in that initial set-up if I were to buy my own jig! 

The ‘bareshaft tuning’ also showed up the inconsistency in my shooting and, with a bit of tuition, I could see how often I was overextending my draw, or as I called it: pinging the arrow. I was told my drawing hand was doing too much. It needs to be simple, and it needs to lock into place. Simple mistakes, simple fixes. Things got better quickly. I’ve known for a while my release was bad, but this short-range shooting made it really easy to see where it was going wrong and how to fix it. The feel and sound of a good release and solid impact are very different to the twang and shudder of a bad one. I wish I had space for a boss in my own garden!

All in all, an informative night, and quite enthralling from my viewpoint. Injected some excitement – as having mixed arrows and a bad experience buying new ones was a bit of a downer. Making my own is within my grasp now!

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New Toys

A jaunt down to the archery shop and I’ve got myself a Gomby long arm guard and a Buck Trail glove. These should do the trick for the meantime… the arm guard should help my butchered left arm repair itself, and the glove should, with luck, resolve the problems I’ve been having with the tab.

Also got myself a few replacement arrows. Different colour fletching to the ones I have, but when you’re buying £5 arrows without notice I guess you just take what you can get. The rate I’m going through them, I’ll need new ones in a month anyway. 

I asked about cresting and was told the best masking tape to use is Frogtape, which is what I had been using, so that was good. I asked how to get the edges sharper and was told this was done by covering them with a thin line made using a pen, like this one:

And the trick to getting those covering/border lines to look sharp is to attach the pen to something fixed, like a workbench, then rotate the arrow when in contact with the pen nib. The way to stop it wobbling is to make sure the arrow point is touching something steady as you rotate the arrow.

To anyone with any crafting skill this might seem like an obvious solution, but I’m not that person, and pleased with having learnt something.

I was also advised that I could using sanding sealer on the arrow, to clog the pores before applying varnish to finish it off, or Danish oil.

Eventually, I’ll try these things.

Now to read the latest Bow International magazine, which I also picked up. No archery today, next session is tomorrow.